It’s the end of November and you have a week off before starting your wonderful new job (more of which anon) – where do you go for a break? Sunny Portugal, or hillwalking in Scotland? Exactly. So we headed off to Tyndrum for a few days’ stay at a trekking hostel on the West Highland Way. Given that it was winter and much of our stay was in midweek, we were pretty fortunate in having the place largely to ourselves for a lot of the time. The main exception to this was over the weekend when the place was taken over by a rather selfish bunch of folk from Venture Scotland, who were being all corporate and having an away weekend for their staff and volunteers. Adhering to the true spirit of such things, they spent a lot of time making people feel good about what they were doing shortly before telling them about the budget cuts that would render some of them redundant. We were made to feel like intruders on several occasions: being asked to move from our dinner table so that they could rearrange the dining room to suit themselves; being kept awake till the early hours by their inane drunken jabbering; being prevented from having breakfast properly the next day; and being excluded from the entire building for the whole day while they did their corporate thing, which overran – of course – by an hour and a half. I’m sure they do worthy work, but they certainly presented their charity in a bad light. I guess you find self-important uptight tossers everywhere, eh?
Anyway, obviously the weather was going to be a mixed bag at best, and so it proved. The first full day was so hideous that we had no option but to go on a sightseeing drive up to Glencoe and back down the coast. Still, we did come face to face with some interesting locals:

The next day we were both a bit tired but decided to get some sort of walk in, so we headed off through the woods and along the track that leads to the foot of Ben Lui, one of a chain of four munros just beside the hostel. They say on a good day one can bag all four in one day, but not when the days are as short as they were then, and not when they’re covered in snow. Neither of us have any crampon/ice axe experience, and to start then would have been to take a short cut (ahem) to A&E. Still, it was a very pretty walk, and the clear light and the ice provided many exciting photo opportunities:

On the way back, the sun set behind the mountain in a very Deep Purple album cover sort of way:

The next day we were determined to climb a Munro if the weather allowed. Luckily the day started fair enough so we headed for our target, Beinn An Dothaidh. This is one of a pair, with Beinn Dorain, and on a normal day one can do both in the same walk. However, once above the lower slopes the going became icy and then, from the saddle upwards, the snow was up to knee-high in places. This wouldn’t have been a problem in itself, but the weather started to close in as we reached the top, and having spoken to a couple of other walkers more experienced than ourselves, we decided against risking running out of light and saved Beinn Dorain for another day. Still, it was good to reach the summit where it was very cold and windy. Sue was especially (and rightly) pleased, this being her first ever Munro – what a way to start – well done you:

Unfortunately this was also the day my camera started to play up. I don’t know whether the sensor has tired of my habit of taking spot-exposures on bright subjects, or the cold got to it, or just general tiredness, but it decided it would rather freeze on me and refuse to shut down than take actual pictures. It’s still pretty flaky now, so I may have to treat myself to a new one. Dammit. Just when I’d figured the thing out
Anyway, this is why there are no pics of the next day’s assault on Ben Challum. We thought we were in with a good shout on this one as well, as the weather started pretty well. However, the further up we got, the windier it became and we were soon in full waterproofs in addition to our many layers of technical clothing. We stuck at it though, and made good progress. Unfortunately when only 100m vertical (and probably about 300m lateral) from the south top (the actual summit is a few hundred metres further on) it was so windy we could barely stand, and the cloud was closing in apace. To paraphrase the great Douglas Adams, just as discretion is the better part of valour, and cowardice is the better part of discretion, we bravely turned around and went down again. With the wind and rain, snow and ice, it actually got harder for a while before we got low enough to get under the worst of it, and personally I was quite pleased we’d stopped when we did. Maybe we’d have been ok, but a lack of experience meant we didn’t truly know what was safe, so instinct took over. Still, it was a good walk, and a good effort. In summer it would be easy.
That’s the most of it – apologies for being so slack in getting up to date (again – I seem to say this a lot lately, but see next entry for perfectly valid explanation excuse). More pics on flickr.